The autobiographical epic by nonfiction master Alexander Genis (“The Reverse Address,” “Kamasutra of a Bookish Person,” “Pictures from an Exhibition,” “Guest”) continues with a new volume of culinary prose. One of the founders of this genre writes about food with the same passion, humor, and love he brings to countries, books, and people.
“Of course, a Russian feast prefers whatever is poured, but it doesn’t stop there. An unprecedented assortment of appetizers and an unheard-of supply of soups make Russia’s kitchen no poorer than its literary tradition. The trouble is that both are difficult to translate. Most often foreigners end up with ‘Princess Grishka’—that’s what Ilf and Petrov called Hollywood films about Russian history” (Alexander Genis).