“Russian Cuisine in Exile” is a collection of sketches and essays on gastronomic topics written by Peter Weil and Alexander Genis in New York in the mid-1980s. It is by no means a cookbook, although practically every chapter is topped with a simple but elegant and colorful culinary recipe. What we have here is a true, time-tested literary monument to history and culture: a monument to an entire civilization that first formed on far shores through the efforts of the “third wave” of Russian emigration, and then unexpectedly and organically blended into the world and order that was born in new Russia.
Weil and Genis repeatedly astonish the reader with the precision of their observations and brilliant erudition. Their essays are devoted—not, as becomes increasingly clear while reading—not so much to Russian cuisine as to the Russians themselves (in the broadest, “geopolitical” sense of the word), to Russian life and Russian times. And the fact that each of these witty essays offers us yet another, purely gastronomic discovery is an additional gift prepared for us by generous authors.